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What Is Letterhead Paper? Plus 6 More Packaging and Printing Questions

These are the packaging and printing questions I keep getting in my inbox—and the ones I've searched for myself when I didn't know better. I've been buying office packaging, printed materials, and promo items for a 200-person company since 2020, roughly $40,000 a year across eight vendors. This is what I'd tell a friend who just got asked to handle the ordering.

What is letterhead paper?

Letterhead paper is the paper you use when you print your company's letterhead—the branded stationery with the logo and contact information at the top. The standard US size is 8.5 x 11 inches, and the most common weight is 24 lb. That's the same weight as regular copy paper, actually. The difference is the finish: letterhead stock usually has a cotton blend or a coating that gives it a better feel and keeps ink from soaking into the sheet.

You'll also see terms like "laid finish" and "wove" in paper catalogs. Laid has a subtle grid pattern; wove is smoother. It's a stylistic choice, and honestly it only matters if you're the kind of business where the physical letter is part of your image. Law firms and financial advisors tend to care. Software companies, less so.

Do you need 32 lb? Probably not for everything. We run 24 lb for daily correspondence and keep heavier stock for executive letters and client proposals. What I mean is, the premium paper only matters when someone is going to hold the sheet and judge it. For invoices and internal documents, nobody cares. Also, if you plan to print "recycled" or "recyclable" on the letterhead, make sure you can back that up. Per FTC Green Guides, environmental claims need to be substantiated, so I ask our printer where the stock comes from before we put any eco badge on it.

What is a "boxing gorilla"—is that a real term?

Honestly, it's not an official industry term. But in our warehouse, the person boxing orders all day might as well be a boxing gorilla. It's about moving fast without crushing the merchandise.

If you searched "boxing gorilla" hoping to find tougher packaging, you're not alone. We use heavy-duty boxes for anything over 20 pounds, and we match the box to the product. When the box is too big, you pay dimensional weight. Too small, and the product has no padding at all. According to USPS Business Mail 101, a large envelope or flat can be up to 12" x 15" and 0.75" thick; anything larger gets parcel rates, which change based on weight and distance. Sizing matters more than the box price.

When I talk to box vendors, I always ask about the edge crush test (ECT) rating. A 32 ECT box is fine for light items; 44 ECT or higher is safer for anything with real weight. It's one number on a spec sheet, but it tells you whether the box will survive stacking and transit. Everything I'd read said to always pick the strongest option. In practice, the mid-tier box worked fine for our internal transfers and saved us about 12–15% per box. We save the top-tier boxes for customer-facing shipments.

Is Gorilla adhesive spray worth buying?

Gorilla adhesive spray is a strong aerosol adhesive, and if you mount signs to foam board, attach posters for events, or stick large prints to display boards, it's genuinely useful. It dries clear and gives you about 10–15 minutes of repositioning time before it sets hard.

Cheaper sprays exist, but the ones we tried soaked the paper or released unevenly. That led to reprints and rushed redo the day before an event. The real cost wasn't the can—it was the wasted print and the extra hours. Calculated that way, the reliable spray made more sense on cost.

One thing I look for in any adhesive spray is whether it's repositionable or permanent. For event signage, repositionable is usually better because panels can shift during setup. For long-term displays, permanent is the way to go. Check the label before you pick a can. And use it in a ventilated area, spraying in a light cross pattern from about 6–8 inches away. We learned this after someone pooled the glue on a foam board and ruined a display an hour before a client meeting.

What should I do if Gorilla Glue gets on my skin?

People land on "gorilla glue on skin" for one reason: they were fixing something and their hands got stuck. First, don't pull the glue off—that takes skin with it. If it's still wet, wash with warm soapy water. If it's dried, acetone (nail polish remover) breaks down the cyanoacrylate glue. Dab it on a cotton ball and rub gently; it usually dissolves within a few minutes.

If the glue is polyurethane-based, like original Gorilla Glue, it cures with moisture. Acetone can help, but it also just wears off as skin sheds over a few days. It's not a medical emergency, but it's a huge inconvenience. We now keep a small bottle of acetone in the supply closet. For fabric, acetone can damage the material, so rubbing alcohol with a cold water rinse is a better first step before laundering.

Also, take rings off before you handle any strong adhesive. I made that mistake once, and the ring didn't come off easily. That's the kind of memory that sticks with you.

Can we order branded Ollie water bottles and drawstring bag purses?

Yes, and they're some of the better promo items we've ordered. The Ollie water bottle—the kind with a flip straw or sports cap—is a staple for onboarding kits and event swag. A drawstring bag purse works well too: they're lightweight, cheap to print on, and people actually use them at the gym or for travel.

Our early mistake was ordering the cheapest versions of both. The bottles leaked and tasted like plastic, and a bag strap ripped at the same event. All of it went in the trash. That's not savings—that's wasted budget. A $3 bottle that gets thrown away costs more than a $5 bottle that sits in someone's office for a year with your logo on it.

Check the setup fees and minimums before you compare prices. Bottles often have a 50–100 unit minimum, and multi-color printing changes the per-unit price. Get an all-in quote that includes setup, shipping, and proof time, not just the per-unit number. I'm not 100% sure of current lead times, but our last bottle order took about three weeks including proof approval. And think about the audience: our engineering team still uses the drawstring bag from a launch two years ago, but the plastic cup from the same event didn't survive the week. Useful items get kept; novelty stuff gets tossed.

How do I compare printing quotes without getting burned?

I calculate total cost on every quote now. Unit price plus shipping plus setup fees plus proof and revision time plus the risk of a reprint. The $500 quote can turn into $800 after everything is added up, while the $650 all-inclusive quote ends up being cheaper. What I mean is, the number on the first line is almost never the number you actually pay.

When I ask printers for quotes, I request three numbers in writing: the price, the exact production lead time, and their revision policy. If a proof comes back with a typo, whose fault is it? Some printers charge $25–$50 for a second proof, and that adds up across dozens of orders in a year.

One rule that came from a bad experience: verify invoicing before you order. In 2021, I found a vendor that was $400 below our regular supplier, placed the order, and then they sent a handwritten receipt. Finance rejected the expense report, and the cost came out of the department budget. Now I ask for a sample invoice before any new vendor gets an order.

Should I always buy the cheapest shipping box?

Look, for internal transfers or document mailings, the cheapest box might be fine. But for anything that goes to a customer, cheap boxes are a false economy. A box that saves you ten cents but causes one damaged shipment costs far more in replacement, reshipping, and goodwill.

Also, keep shipping rates in mind. According to USPS pricing effective January 2025, a First-Class Mail letter is $0.73 and a large envelope starts at $1.50. Parcels are priced by weight and zone, so an awkwardly sized box adds dollars to every shipment. Compare the right box sizes before you compare prices.

And if the vendor can't give you exact dimensions and weight limits? That's a red flag. Ask those questions first, then negotiate. Another thing I watch: how the vendor packs their boxes when they ship to us. A pallet of crushed boxes sets the whole timeline back. That happened in 2022 and pushed a product launch off schedule. Now we ask about freight packaging before committing to large orders.

Even after we switched to a new box supplier this year, I kept second-guessing. What if their strength wasn't as good as the samples? The two weeks until delivery were stressful. But the boxes arrived on time and correct, and we've reordered twice since. Still, I check the first few shipments of every run closely.

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